Monday, August 25, 2008

Jabalpur – the city of balancing rocks!


Jabalpur is an ancient town in central Madhya Pradesh, India. It is located on the shores of River Narmada and is known for its marble rocks. But it has many other interesting sites including its unique topography..

THE CITY is surrounded by low, rocky and barren hillocks, which geologists and archaeologists can feast upon. When you are in Jabalpur you should visit Madan Mahal, a fort built by Gond Raja Madan Shah, on a top of a rocky hill. This fort dominates the skyline and provides a panoramic view of the town and the open countryside around it. One can see numerous rock formations around Madan Mahal but the one which catches your attention is at one of the exits of the Madan Mahal, atop the mountain. It is called ‘balancing rock’. Balancing rock is an independent rock balancing itself over another rock. Wikipedia puts it as an eroded volcanic rock formation. But it is a rock formation, perfectly balanced over another rock formation, for years - a good opportunity for professional photographers to click.

A few kilometres away from Jabalpur is the Tilwara Ghats, on the banks of the Narmada. It was amongst the several spots were Mahatma Gandhi’s ashes were immersed. It houses an old Mahadev (Tilwadeshwar) temple. It is soothing to take a boat ride on the Narmada River here and the cool breeze that embraces you when the boatman takes you a bit farther is indescribable. Well, if the boatman takes you under the bridge, you see number of ‘mud nests’ beneath the bridge.

At the Ghat, you will also see boats quarrying sand and trucks quarrying mud and sand for construction and other purposes. It is a matter of concern of course. And the way Narmada is polluted here, with people taking bath, cleaning utensils, immersing flowers and scattering poly bags all over the river, the bank of the river looks a complete mess. Unless the authorities wake up immediately, the pollution level may go out of control.

Jabalpur is known for its marble rocks. The marble rocks have been captured in many movies. For example ‘Asoka’, featuring Shahrukh and Kareena Kapoor, features these marble rocks. On the bank of the river Bhedaghat, Narmada, lie these marble rocks, in all their splendour, adding name and fame to Jabalpur. On either side of the Narmada are white saccharine limestone rocks intertwined with dark green and black volcanic rocks. These marble-white pinnacles sparkle in the sunlight and cast dappled shadows on the pellucid waters – a glorious spectacle indeed! People here say that on a full moon-lit night, it is even more enticing although I did not get a chance to view it on a full moon-lit night.

The only precaution one should take here is to hire a boat for exclusive use although more money is to be spent for the purpose. Sharing the boat with others may prove risky since the boats are invariably overloaded, although they may be cheaper (it may cost just Rs 25 per head, as it did in my case). Life jackets are not provided by the boatman! It is surprising that the administration has not looked into the safety aspect. Perhaps the administration will wake up only after a disaster strikes.

Another site worth watching is the Dhuandhar water fall (’Dhuan’ is the Hindi word for smoke). It is called Dhuandhar because the water droplets rise in a concentrated mass and create an illusion of vapour. It is against this backdrop many visitors to Jabalpur get themselves photographed! No doubt, it is a great a place for dating; the evenings are great but crowded. Here you can get some local youngsters to jump into the falls for a dare; of course, it will cost you – it is Rs 100 or so! Well, a few of them have been covered by a TV serial which showcased it as a demonstration of the youngsters’ bravado!

Jabalpur also has a Chausat Yogini, situated atop a hill. One can have a great view of the Narmada from there and experience the nice, cool breeze which blows across. This 10th century temple has carved stone figures of deities belonging to the Kalchuri period. Tripur Sundari Temple, Rani Durgavati Memorial and Museum, Pisanhari ki Madiya are some of the other places to see. The Bargi Dam across the Narmada River in Madhya Pradesh is a great tourist site.

It is near Jabalpur and one can have a breathtaking view of the Narmada. But unfortunately Bargi area also has stone-crushing units that provide concrete for the construction industry of the city. These units employ child labour, since they listen, work hard and are easy to hire and fire. Rural poverty, lack of employment opportunities and illiteracy have forced many children to work in stone-crushing units. More than 300 children continue to suffer here; they work in tough conditions; the work is painful and the children need urgent attention. I immediately referred the matter to higher authorities but things don’t change easily in India; more efforts are needed here.

Anil Gulati

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Heritage buildings in Bhopal need attention


Bhopal is full of heritage buildings but these suffer from neglect, be it the old artificial water way 'Rahat', Benazir Gate or Sadar Manzil. These are a part our identity that would be passed on to the next generation. Serious steps are needed.

BHOPAL, THE capital city of Madhya Pradesh has many heritage buildings and places, many of them are protected by the state and Centre, and have retained their glory. But I wish to divert attention to the places, which need help.

Rahat is an old artificial water way heritage, which was constructed in Bhopal (next to the lake at police officer mess), it is an example of old technique of drawing water. It was used to carry water from lower lake to Noorbagh, which was the garden of Nawab Jahangir Mohammed Khan Palace. There was a 20 metre high wall along the bank of lake with an open drain in the upper portion to carry water to Noorbagh. Water was carried to up to 2.5 kilometres by sheer gravitational force. Water was drawn by Persian wheel, which is no more, but Rahat that worked with the help of oxen still exists. This is an example how in earlier times one used to transport water using gravitational force to an advantage. Rahat, as it is called, is a heritage where garden exists but the water in the lake nearby stinks. If you happen to climb the stairs, you will feel hurt to see the lake getting polluted.

Another heritage monument that needs attention is Benazir Gate. It is on the backside of Benazir palace built by Shah Jahan Begum as the summer rest house in 1877. Locals here share that this was a three storeyed building but now is left with only one, rest all have turned to debris. The one storey that is left out is lying in a devastated condition with no one to care. It should have been renovated and made an important landmark of the city, but in Bhopal it lies shattered.

Sadar Manzil, a great heritage building of Bhopal presently houses office of Bhopal Municipal Corporation. This building was built in 1898 AD by Nawab Shah Jahan Begum and was converted as Durbar hall of Bhopal by her daughter, Nawab Sultanjehan Begum. The mosaic of the building is akin to Deewan-e-Khas of Red Fort in Delhi. The building from outside still looks beautiful but with Municipal Corporation office running in it, it has lost a lot of history inside the same and its glory will get eroded, unless some action is taken.

Bhopal also has a Taj Mahal, a palace built by the Begum of Bhopal. Begum Shah Jahan had built this architectural marvel as her own residence in the year 1884. The construction of the same was started in year 1871 and was completed in the year 1884. Thanks to the efforts of non governmental organisations (NGOs), media and activists, the hall of Sheesh Mahal is now being renovated by the state archaeology department. Courtyard of this Taj Mahal has Sawan Bhadon Pavilion, which is similar to the ‘Sawan Bhadon’ of Shalimar Garden in Kashmir. It has many parts intact and effort are being made to retain its original look. Efforts are on to help it regain its lost pristine glory. It is time when government bodies take notice of the above three and undertake some serious steps to preserve these.

Saturday, August 9, 2008

Sanchi, a magnificent architectural expression

Sanchi is now included in the list of United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation's heritage sites of the world. Emperor Asoka laid the foundation of this religious centre, a remarkable sense of Buddhist art and architecture..

RAISEN DISTRICT of Madhya Pradesh hosts one of the magnificent stupas of central India, namely the stupa of Sanchi. If one is traveling on a train from Delhi to Bhopal, the Great Stupa is visible from kilometers on a green serene hill overlooking the plain, attracting one’s immediate attention. Sanchi has remarkable specimen of Buddhist art and architecture right from the early Mauryan period ie third century BC to 12th century AD. It is now included in the list of United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation’s (UNESCO) heritage sites of the world.
Sanchi, has been known as Kakanaya, Kakanava, Kakanadabota and Bota-Sriparvata in ancient times. It was Emperor Asoka who laid the foundations of a religious centre at Sanchi, he might have been fascinated by the location of the hill or because of his queen, Devi who was the daughter of a merchant of Vidisha. He erected the Great Stupa (Stupa 1) here after redistribution of mortal remains of Lord Buddha for erecting several stupas all over the country in order to spread Buddhism.

Archeological Survey of India web site state that it was in year 1818, that General Taylor saw shapeless ruin in the wilderness of Sanchi. Captain Johnson dug out the entire western portion of the stupa in 1822. Alexander Cunningham and Captain FC Maisay (1851) further excavated it in search of relic casket. However the credit for piecing together the scattered fragments of this monument goes to Sir John Marshall during 1912-1919 who was the director general of Archaeological Survey of India.

The monuments of Sanchi
Sanchi’s monuments consists of stupas, monolithic pillars, temples and monasteries and are about 50 in number. Stupas are large hemispherical domes, containing a central chamber, in which the relics of the Buddha were placed and are the most characteristic monument of Buddhist India.

Stupa 1 – This is the principal monument at Sanchi and consists of a gigantic mound of sandstone surrounded by sumptuous porticoes with stone railings. It is known for its extraordinarily rich decorative work on its four monumental gateways (southern, northern, eastern and western gateways) or torana that provide access to the stupa. They are positioned almost exactly in line with the four cardinal points, and these gateways transpose into stone the structure of the wooden gateways. The lush carvings, prodigious creations in bas relief, high relief in the round, are an iconographic treasure trove.

The gateways – of all the gateway all of the first century BC the earliest to be built was the one on the south, which was principal entrance which was successfully followed by north, east and west gateways. Of all toranas or gateways, the best preserved is the northern gateway which enables the visitor to have a complete idea of the appearance of all the gateways. Each gateway consists of two square pillars crowned by set of four lions, elephants or pot bodied dwarfs supporting a super structure of the three cruciform architraves with spirally rolled ends.
The entire surface of the gateways is covered with relief’s representing scenes and decorations. The subject matter of the carvings on the gateways may be broadly classified as follows:

- Scenes from Jatakas – stories of the Jatakas centre round the previous births of Gautama Buddha
- Scene from life of Gautama Buddha
- Events in the subsequent history of Buddhism
- Scene relating to the Manushi Buddhas and
- Miscellaneous scenes and decorations

Stupa 3 – Situated about 45 meters to the north east of stupa 1 is stupa 3. Though smaller in dimensions and has one gateway and its hemispherical. It is crowned by single umbrella. The importance of this stupa lies in the fact that the relics if Sariputra and Maudgalyayana, the two foremost disciples of Buddha were found by Cunningham enshrined at the centre of this dome on the level of the terrace.

Stupa 2 – Dates back to the 2nd century BC, stands at the very edge of the hill and its most striking feature is the stone balustrade that surrounds it.

Besides these stupas there are remains of other large number of others stupas on the main, they are monolithic or structural. Immediately behind stupa 3 is stupa 4, which exists in heap of loose stones without the tace of any ground balusttade. Stups no 5 to the stupa 3 is remarkable in its have an image of Budhha (in museum)

Pillars
None of the free standing pillars, which can be seen at on the main terrace is intact. The earliest one them is pillar number 10, which was erected by Ashoka near south gateway of Stupa 1. The lower part of the same now stands alone with fragments of the shaft packed inside a shed near by. This may have been one of the finest columns by virtue if its magnificent capital. The other prominent pillars are Pillar 25, with octagonal shaft south of stupa 5 probably of Sunga period; Pillar 26 which is kind of imitation of column of Ashoka stands north of pillar 25, broken and Pillar 35, or Vajrapani pillar (pillar with surmounted by the figure of Vajrapani)

Temples of Sanchi
Temple number 18 of seventh century now has nine pillars out of the 12 and pilaster with architraves over them are still intact, stands on the raised platform facing south gateway of the Stupa 1. Temple 17 situated near the north east corner of Temple 18 and standing on the low moulded basement this temple consists of flat roofed square sanctum with a portico supported m four pillars in the front is remarkable piece of Gupta architecture, noted for its structural propriety and symmetry. In addition to above monastery and temple 45 built during the period of the 7th and 11th centuries, have a more developed styles of architecture. The doorways of this construction are ornamented, with the image of Buddha in an oval Halo.

Sanchi, not only is unique in having the most perfect and well-preserved stupas but also offers a wide information and education to our past. It is about 45 kilometers from Bhopal and is about hour and half drive from Bhopal. But Sanchi lacks number of trained guides. As per media reports it has only eight licensed tourist guides but normally three to four are available rest go missing. And Sanchi with guide is real interesting, the local knowledge of stories, history and culture add a value to the visit.

Anil Gulati